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Air Plant (Tillandisa) Care Guide.

Light Requirements

Light is essential for your air plant’s health. Without enough light, the plant’s leaves won’t be able to absorb water or nutrients properly, which can cause the plant to fade and eventually die.

Indoors:
Tillandsias do well indoors, but they need bright, indirect light. Place your plant near a window with plenty of morning or late afternoon sun but which is not exposed to direct midday sunlight. Fluorescent lighting will be fine for a while, but will not be enough to sustain the plants, so a bright window is recommended.

Outdoors:
If you keep your plant outside, it can handle more sunlight because of the better air circulation, but still be mindful of too much harsh afternoon sun, which can burn and kill your plant. Growing under the roof of a verandah, under a tree where it gets dappled light all day or in a greenhouse under 40 to 50% shade cloth is ideal, and the plant will thrive. Just make sure it gets plenty air movement.

Acclimatization

When you receive your plant, it is advised to soak it in a bucket of water for 15 minutes to ensure it is properly hydrated, especially after its journey. Ensure the plant is thoroughly dry before moving it to its new location.

When in their new home, you may notice the death of the lower leaves. This is perfectly normal, and they can simply be cut off with scissors.

I always spray new plants with Novion, to give them that extra boost. Spray all over the plant, including the undersides of the leaves. 

(A free sample vial is sent with every order to assist with acclimatization and ease abiotic stress.) 

Watering Requirements

Watering your air plant properly is key to keeping it healthy. Where possible try to use pure water. Filtered or rain water works well. Aquarium or pond water works well too and the plants will appreciate the added nutrients. Avoid water that is artificially softened such as RO or distilled water. If using tap water, allow the water to sit at room temperature for a few hours to ensure that the chlorine dissipates before watering your plants. 

Grey, stiff-leaved Tillandsias usually need less water than the softer, green, or thin-leaved varieties, but most plants do well with weekly watering.

If growing indoors: it is recommended that you soak the plants in a bucket of water for 30 mins every week. Daily misting does not give the plant adequate water. Misting can be done in addition to weekly soaking, if you are experiencing hot, low humidity conditions. Be sure to shake of all excess water after soaking, as any water left in your plant leaves can cause rot.  

If growing outdoors: The best way to water is to use a hose sprinkler and spray the plants as you would normal garden watering. Alternatively depending on how many you have, you could use a watering can, and liberally pour the water over the plants. Either way, be sure that a nice gentle spray of water is used. Again, ensure that no water is left in the crown / leaf growth section of certain plants like the Xerographicas, as this can cause rot. 

Adjust watering schedules depending on season and humidity levels. (I water twice a week in winter due to low humidity and dryness of the air up here in the Midlands)

Potting Media Requirements

Tillandsias are remarkable and hold such an attraction because they are just that, Air Plants. The roots are only used to anchor the plant. They do not absorb water or nutrients through the roots, as this is done solely through the leaves. 

You can attach them to pretty much anything such as an ornament, or piece of wood, or just hang them in the air on string. If attaching to something use thin flexible plastic-coated garden wire or stretch cotton. Do not use normal wire or copper as these leach toxins and will kill your plant. Wood glue works well if attached to rocks or any similar substrate. (Remember that rocks get VERY hot, so ensure they stay in the shade.) Do NOT use silicone or Cable glue.

Check out my Blog on the many creative ways one can display your plants.

A great way to display larger plants is to cut the bottom of a plastic plant pot out, invert the pot, and place the plant therein. This also keeps the hanging leaves off the ground showcasing those magnificent curls that plants like Xerographica and Streptophylla are known for. :-) 

Certain species such as the Wallisia, Flaballata and Kirchoffiana can be grown in the air, but they full out, and look better when planted in small pots. Fulling these pots with Orchid Back mix is suitable, just be carefull of over-watering as the bark stays moist for quite a while.

Feeding Requirements

Since Tillandsia absorb all their nutrients through their leaves, they will really benefit from a mild foliar fertilizer spray like Novion, and a standard high-nitrogen liquid plant fertilizer, which can be sprayed directly onto the leaves. Spray weekly with Novion and twice a month with fertilizer during the active growing periods, and reduce this to once a month during winter.. 

Novion or Air Plant Fertilizer can be purchased from the Accessories page.

Pest Control

Air plants are commonly infected by Mealybugs and Scale insects. They are usually found around the stems and leaves, and mostly get attracted to an air plant that is dying. 

To avoid your air plant being infected by disease or pest infestation, it is best to give a through inspection when watering. If an infected plant is found, isolate it to prevent infecting others and spray with a mild Insecticide. 

I recommend Rosecare 3 by Efekcto as this utilizes both a systemic and contact insecticide and is mild enough not to “hurt” the plant.

This needs to be sprayed on the plant every week for 3 weeks if the infestation is really bad. 

Temperature Tolerance

While some varieties can withstand lower temperatures, it is better to be safe than sorry. Most air plants are tropical, so prefer temperatures between 10 to 30 degrees Celcius.

If your winter temperatures drop below 10 degrees Celsius and your plants ae growing outdoors, bring them indoors and keep them in a bright sunny, warm window. If you are growing in a greenhouse, ensure its is tightly closed up at night to retain heat.

Most will die if exposed to extreme cold. 

Air Circulation

Don’t underestimate the importance of air movement. They are called Air plants for a reason. They need Air movement just as much as you and I need air to breathe.

Air circulation is one of the most important aspects of an air plant’s care. Air plants have Trichomes (like the hair on your arms) which assist them in absorbing moisture and nutrients from the air. Airflow is also important as it helps the plant dry out after watering, thus preventing rot. 

Winter Dormancy

Like most houseplants, Tillandsia do go dormant in the winter. However this dormancy simply means a reduced growth and not actual dying back of the  plant.

During this time, reduce the watering schedule by at least 50%. (Water once every 2 weeks instead of weekly.) You will get by with a gentle misting once a week rather than a saturated watering.

Remember to ensure the plant dries out thoroughly before placing it back in its container, (If housed in one) and shake off all excess water when done.  

orange-flower

Flowers and Pups

Once your Tillandsia reaches full maturity, it will bloom — often with a stunning flower. After blooming the mother plant starts to produce pups, which are basically baby plants.
 
Over time, the mother plant will begin to fade and eventually die off, but don’t worry! The pups will grow into new plants, keeping the cycle going. The cool thing is that pups grow up very fast, and will start making their own babies as well. Before you know it, you’ll have a cluster of plants.
 
You can choose to remove a pup when it’s about a third the size of the parent plant if you want to grow it separately, or, if you like the look of a clump of plants, just leave them together.
 
Either way, it’s important to get rid of any dead plants in the group so that rot or pests don’t sneak in.